made about 3 pairs of these before i found ones i was happy to wear.
first step was patterning the calf (usually using aluminum foil and tape to make a pattern, cutting along the seam, and flattening out) and then adding a t-shaped panel on top.
skive, fold, and grommet the sides, and then stitch the panel to the calf. add elastic to the panel. lace with boot laces.